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Riding the subway, pulling into a new station, we ve all had the thought: What if I just got off here? What s up there? Seoul Sub-urban seeks to answer those questions, visiting subway stations across the Korean capital and looking at the surrounding areas from a perspective that combines the fresh eyes of an outsider with the understanding of longtime resident. It travels to traditional markets, ancient historical sites, Industrial zones, and the city s hippest neighborhoods, en route introducing the market vendors, blacksmiths, and artists that make Seoul so fascinating. There s no end to what you can discover here. All you have to do is get off the train.
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INTRODUCTION 9
DONGDAEMUN STATION Inscrutable City 12
JONGNO 5-GA STATION It Is What It Was 19
NOKSAPYEONG STATION Foreign Affairs 26
YEOUIDO STATION River Banks 36
DONGNIMMUN STATION Spirits of the Past 41
BANGI STATION Lush Life 47
BANPO STATION Haven¡¯t We Met Before? 51
HANSUNG UNIVERSITY STATION Writers¡¯ Retreat 54
JONGGAK STATION Illumination 60
SANGGYE STATION Ex-Residents 65
CHANGSIN STATION Waiting 69
GANGBYEON STATION Exit Planet Seoul 76
NONHYEON STATION On and Off the Avenue 80
NORYANGJIN STATION Waterworld 83
SANGSU STATION Here Today, Gone Tomorrow 89
NAMGURO STATION Snapshots 94
DANGGOGAE STATION Life below the Mountains 98
DONGGUK UNIVERSITY STATION Independence Movement 101
SEOUL STATION Track 107
JAMWON STATION Urban Pastoral 114
HAK-DONG STATION Home Improvement 117
GONGDEOK STATION Remainders 121
EULJIRO 4-GA STATION Hiding in Plain Sight 125
MYEONG-DONG STATION BIFF! BAM! POW! 129
OLYMPIC PARK STATION Toprock 135
CHUNGMURO STATION Period Pieces 141
HAPJEONG STATION Baristas at the Gates 146
GEOYEO STATION Down and Out in Gangnam 152
SINDANG STATION Unfolding 158
MULLAE STATION Industrial Arts 167
YANGJAE STATION Odd Worlds 176
JONGNO 3-GA STATION Mixed Medium 181
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 191